Sabah Tourism, 51 Gaya, KK: +6088 212121 info@sabahtourism.com Bank hours: M-F 9:30-3:00
Thank you for your email and interest to stay in the proposed Tun Mustapha Park.
For accommodation you can stay at:
1) Karakit Town, Banggi Island (can be reached directly by ferry from Kudat) for RM500 per month in a home (a house on stilts on water with 2 bedrooms, living room, kitchen, toilet) with bedding and linen provided, except you need to bring a towel. There is no one living in the house, owned by a community member of Maliangin Island. However, you may have to share the house with WWF staffs (2 or 3 people) sometimes when we conduct activities on Karakit. Breakfast will be provided but you can cook yourself (cooking utensils and gas for cooking provided). Water source – government piped water.
2) Maliangin Island Homestay (located 15-30 minutes boat ride from Banggi island – depending on the type of boat you manage to hire) – stay with a family (3 houses to choose from), the family has household of 5 – 7 people in the house at all times and can cook for you, charging RM30 per day with 3 meals per day, that will total up to RM900 a month. However you might have to provide them with raw materials to cook. Water source – untreated spring water/well water. There is a basic squat toilet and shower facility.
Our Community Liaison Officer, Sofia Johari, recommends that you try to stay at both Karakit (longer term) and Maliangin (short term) as Karakit will have all the basic facilities you will need for a long term stay and for research (e.g., eating stalls, market, boat transfer, ferry, clinic, sundries shops and etc.) and Maliangin to experience life on an idyllic island.
You can also negotiate with people in Karakit to go to the other islands nearby as well; e.g., Patanunan, Balak Balak, Balambangan, Tigabu. Sofia can help negotiate if you don’t speak Bahasa Malaysia, and she can also make any booking or connect you to the relevant service providers. WWF is helping to promote the area for ecotourism and other sustainable livelihoods alternate to fishing.
For Maliangin check out: www.facebook.com/malianginisland Watch videos from the recently concluded Tun Mustapha Park Expedition: http://www.youtube.com/user/TMPE2012
Sincerely, — Angela Lim Communications Manager Sulu-Sulawesi Marine Ecoregion (SSME) Programme WWF-Malaysia, Suite 1-6-W11, 6th Fl, CPS Tower No.1, Jln Centre Point 88000 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia Tel: +60 88 262 420, Fax: +60 88 242 531 Email: alim@wwf.org.my
Sofia Johari
Howard Stanton www.tampatdoaman.com C/O Petit Surat 115, Kudat, Sabah, East Malaysia Telephone : +60 (0)13 880 8395 howard stanton
KK Tourism: Tel: +6088-212121 Sembulan (suburb) – On the west side of KK and currently (in)famous for its water village. It’s populated by most illegal immigrants and as such not really maintained, resulting in it being a bit of a cesspool. The water village is being filled in and will soon be replaced by a brand new shopping centre and apartments. North Borneo Railway.
Howard Stanton www.tampatdoaman.com C/O Petit Surat 115, Kudat, Sabah, East Malaysia Telephone : +60 (0)13 880 8395 We can pick you up from Kudat (30km away) for RM 15 per person each way, if the transfer is needed before 2pm, after 2pm the transfer rate rises to RM 30 per person. The best way to get here is to jump in a shared taxi from a place called Bandaran Berjaya in Kota Kinabalu, the best time is in the morning between 8am and 10am, Cost: RM 25 each, give us a call / SMS when you are leaving Kota Kinabalu (013 880 8395) so that we can guage when you will be arriving in Kudat, about a three hour trip. If driving yourself ; head North towards Kudat , look for signs for the Tip Of Borneo (Simpang Mengayau) 20km south of Kudat and follow them. Upon reaching the beach look for the Tip Top signs as soon as you reach the beach and stop in and introduce yourselves to the friendly staff.
StepinLodge Address: 1st – 3rd Floors, Lot 1 Block L, Sinsuran Complex, Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens, 88000 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia. Tel: (6088) 233519 Fax: (6088) 236519 E-mail: info@stepinlodge.com the taxi is RM30 per way from airport to city during normal operating hours, another 50% midnight surcharge is levied from 12:00 midnight to 6am.
Richard Sulip
Uncle Chang’s Sipadan Mabul Dive Lodge Semporna, Sabah Causeway Rd. S.O.T.C. (+6) 017-8950002 (+6) 089781 002 / 089 782002
Sipadan
Langkawi: rosidi daud
Pulau Tuba: Khairul Hakimin +6 019 2243 805 —
Seaside Travellers Inn Tel: +60-88-750555, 750313, 752067, 757999 Seaside Travellers Inn (STI) is located 20km south of Kota Kinabalu City (KK) along the Papar road, in a village called Kampung Laut Kinarut. It is 12km from KK Airport Terminal 1 and 18km from Terminal 2.
We are happy to offer you a room upstairs Boungain Villa at RM900 per month (USD300 equivalent roughly). This is a fairly large room, fan-cooled and with a common bathroom (with hot shower, washbasin and toilet) right outside. However, BV is nearest to the road so you may not find this room suitable if you like to sleep during the day or a light sleeper. James Ong (Operations Manager) SEASIDE TRAVELLERS INN Tel: +60 88 750555, 750313, 752067 & 751794 Alternative Tel: +60 88 757999 Fax: +60 88 750479 E-mail: stinn89@gmail.com Alternative E-mail: james@seasidetravellersinn.com.my Website: www.seasidetravellersinn.com.my
Turn right as you drive out from Terminal 1 and head towards Papar. Not too long after the towns of Petagas and Putatan, you will see Lok Kawi Army Camp on your left and you will also see mangrove forests and the sea on your right hand side. Soon you reach the traffic lights at Lok Kawi junction, turn right and drive pass Shell and Petronas on your left and Lok Kawi town with surrounding housing estate on your right.
Drive 2km (from the traffic lights at Lok Kawi) on the Papar road and you will pass a pink school building (SMK Kinarut) on your left. STI is 1.4km further on your right hand side. Look for the Carlsberg and Guinness signs!
For those using KK Airport Terminal 2, turn right as you come out and soon you reach a roundabout at Tanjung Aru town. Go straight about 1km and turn right at the traffic light intersection to head towards Papar. After a few km you will see Terminal 1 on your right, from there just follow directions above.
Public Transportation:
To get to STI from KK, take mini-bus number 17C from the Bus Terminal next to “Wawasan Plaza”, located on the southern end of the city. You can also take the bus from Milimewa Superstore opposite KFC near Hyatt Hotel. The fare is RM3.00 per person per way KK/STI Kinarut and the bus leaves when full. They operate till about 9pm.
Taxis are easy as they are stationed all around KK. Just say you are heading to Kinarut. The fare is RM35.00 per way KK/STI Kinarut sitting up to 4 persons, although price may vary from one taxi to another. Charges are higher during late hours.
To get to KK from STI, mini-buses are available all day – just wave down any mini-bus heading downtown.
Taxi or hotel transport can be arranged at the Inn’s reception.
Location Address:
KM20 Kota Kinabalu/Papar Road Kampung Laut, Kinarut 89600 Papar, Sabah, Malaysia
Distance:
The Inn is 12km from Kota Kinabalu Airport Terminal 1 (15 minutes drive), 18km from Terminal 2 (20 minutes drive) and 20km from Kota Kinabalu City (25 minutes drive).
—— A good local café will have staffs wearing the green DBKK Health Card, utensils dunked in a mug of hot water and a trash bin underneath the table.
Kampung Karakit Mini Hall, complete with indoor badminton courts. Almost every evening, these courts are utilised by the residents to play badminton. The residents in Kampung Karakit get their health treatment services at Klinik Kesihatan Karakit or Karakit Health Clinic. Among the health services provided are the primary health care that encompasses out-patient treatment, pharmacy, laboratories and vector borne disease control. Other services include the mother and child health care as well as dentistry.
KK: Dr Vivien Lo Dental Surgery, Shoplot 2, 1st Fl Block A, Damai Plaza Phase 4 Tel: 088-270037 Dr Majid Ali Chiragdin, Sabah Dental Surgery, 5 Wisma Yakim, Kbu Tel: 088-215535 Dr Dick Wong, Lot 34, Damai Plaza Tel: 088-266580 Choa Dental Clinic, 1/F Lot 3, Block G, Segama Shopping Complex, KK Tel: 088-232196 Dr Alex Lo, 5th floor, Centrepoint. Ph. 88 265215.
KK car rental: Safie – cheaper, older “yachtie” cars and some better ones. Cheapest. Will deliver and pick up. 0168366507 eg Kancil RM80/day; RM70/day for 3 day hire or RM40/day for 1 mth hire
Hospital Kudat: Peti Surat No. 22 89057, Kudat, 89057, Kudat, Sabah * Tel 088-613 333 * Fax 088-611 875
WETLAND WILDLIFE AND FIREFLY CRUISE: Klias River or Tauran wetlands cruise to find proboscis monkeys etc. Includes high tea and dinner by the river. Afternoon & Evening trip. Cost approx. 185 RM pp. tour companies at Wisma Sabah, opposite the Merdeka bus stop. Try Borneo Icons, Excel Dive and Tours, Wildlife Expeditions, TYH Borneo Co TUNKU ABDUL RAHMAN MARINE PARK: 5 islands close by KK. Can do afternoon, morning or all day trips. Water sports available at extra expense. Cost approx. 170 RM for all day, pp. LOK KAWI WILDLIFE PARK: Zoo specialising in Malaysian and other Asian animals + botanical park. Day trip. Lunch included. Cost approx. 170 RM. You can drive yourself there – entry approx. 20RM for adults MONOSOPIAD CULTURAL VILLAGE : Kadazan cultural farmhouses, dance performance, stories & folklore. Half day trip, incl. entrance fees and guide. Cost 160 RM pp
Rungus Long House approx. 40 kms south of Kudat open to visitors. Labuan is a federal territory belonging to Sabah, and is a large island with 6 other smaller ones located just 8 kms off the Borneo coast, opposite Brunei. People usually access Labuan by ferry from KK, Brunei or Menumbok, at the entrance to the Klias River. It is a duty-free port, so most of the many stores there offer duty-free liquor, cigarettes, chocolate and perfume.
The Malay people in Sabah are a particular race from the Peninsula Malaysia. A large number of Sabah people are not Malay but indigenous Borneo people including Kadazans, Dusuns, Muruts, Bruneians, Bajau, Sino and others.There are also significant numbers of people of Indian, Chinese, Philippine and Indonesian origins.
KK Museum: We are located at Jalan Kebajikan off Jalan Penampang, opposite the Secretariat Building and approximately 4 km from Kota Kinabalu City. From Kota Kinabalu City Centre:
* Bus No. 13 with fares RM1.00 (one way) * Taxi fare: RM10.00 (one way). * (+60) 088 – 253199/254852/253551 * (+60) 088 – 225033
Kadazandusun
One of the major tribes in Sabah offers very unique food. Most interesting are the pickled food. 5 well-known foods are
* Tuhau (pickled tuhau plant with chili) * Bosou (pickled pork, fish or fresh water shrimp) * Bambangan (pickled Bambangan fruit – looks a bit like mango) * Butod (fat worm found in banana or sago tree stem which is eaten fresh/raw or deep fried) * Hinava (marinated raw fish in lime juice similar to ceviche or umai in Sarawak but different ingredient) * Lihing (rice wine) * Tapai (rice wine with fermented rice still inside and usually put inside a tajau – a clay pot container) * Montaku (distilled rice wine) * There is a variety of stews or soups with pork, chicken & beef, as the main ingredient. * Roast belly of pork is a particular favourite, both for the KadazanDusun & Chinese.
Chinese
Sabahan Chinese is predominantly Hakka with some Chinese belong to Cantonese, Hokkien, Foochow or Shantung dialect. Therefore, most Chinese foods here have Hakka cuisine influence.
* Beef noodle (meat or offal) – * Dumpling (pan fried or steam) – / * Seafood noodle (meat or lips/skin or fish head) * Pork noodle (meat or offal) – * Hakka braised pork with yam – * Chicken or prawn in rice wine – / * Pork throttle braised in vinegar – * Steam/roast chicken rice * Stir fried sweet leaf (sauropus androgynus or sayur manis in Malay) – * BBQed pork & roast belly of pork
Muslim
Sabah is part of Malaysia after all. However, the Muslim food here is different from the rest of Malaysia, being influenced by the Philippines & Kalimantan styles. Peninsula culinary influence, however, is increasing.
* Satay * Nasi Lemak * Nasi goreng kampung (a good one will have some shrimp paste smell and anchovies are crunchy) * Nasi lalap * Soto Java * Soto Makasar * Air Kelapa Bakar (hot coconut drink – basically whole coconut is dump into hot fire pit and burn until the juice is close to boiling) * various dishes using Sabah indigenous products, like pakis, sayur manis, seaweed, basung and eggplant.
Indian
There is a small population of Indians in KK. Therefore, not suprisingly Indian cuisine is commonly found around the city.
* Roti canai * Roti Cobra (similar to roti canai but come with a fried egg and meat curry) * Roti Murtabak (roti filled with minced goat or chicken meat) * Nasi Briyani * Chapatti * Tosai * Teh Madras (milk tea Madras style, usually cardamom is used)
Northernmost tip of Borneo, the Simpang Mengayau, is only 40 kilometers from Kudat is a truly fascinating area to visit and
Simpang Mengayau has remained relatively undisturbed and was only recently “discovered” as a tourism destination. Pristine beaches, indigenous longhouses, secluded diving, intricate handicraft by the Rungus people – the ethnic entity that populates the Kudat Peninsula.
Over the last few years the peninsula has seen tremendous upgrading of infrastructure, and this very tip of Borneo Island is now accessible by car in little under three hours from Kota Kinabalu City.
A visit to Sabah should not be complete without having seen the very Tip of Borneo at least…!
Shortly after the British North Borneo Chartered Company leased the territory of Sabah from the sultans of Brunei and Sulu, they establish shed a settlement at Kudat and declared it their first capital in ISS2. Just two years later, however, water shortages forced the administration to move their capital east to Sandakan.
The Rungus the indigeous tribe on the Kudat peninsula and on the east side of Marudu Bay made their homes inland, while the coastline attracted Muslim Bajau, Irranun and Suluk. The Rungus called the Kudat area after the Tomborungus River that ran into an inlet nearby. When the British arrived and asked for the name of the place, the Rungus thought they wanted to identify the coarse grass growing there, so said Kutad. Eventually, the name was corrupted to Kudat, and was used in preference to the old name of Tomborungus. Because of a labor shortage, the British North Borneo Chartered Company engaged the Basel Missionary Society to bring in families of Christian Hakkas from southern China to help develop Kudat.
Accessible primarily by sea until less than 50 years ago, when a road eventually linked Kudat with Kota Kinabalu, Kudat’s past isolation has ensured that much of the original charm and tradition of the region remain relatively unchanged.
CELCOM: INTERNATIONAL OPERATOR SERVICE 24/7 by dialing 108 Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA) +603 8776 4311 Celcom Careline +603 3630 8888 Emergency Number 112 To place a direct international call from Malaysia: Dial the international access code (00), plus the country code of the place you are dialing (U.S. and Canada 1, For local directory assistance: Dial tel. 103
Kota Kinabalu Branch Wawasan Plaza, Level 1&2, 88000 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah. 24/7 Payment Kiosk
Damai Branch Wisma CTF, Lot 4, Block B, Phase 3. Damai Plaza Luyang. 88300 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah
——- KK: Sensi Backpackers Hostel Unit No.103, 88000 Jalan Gaya, Kota Kinabalu. TEL: 088-272796 FAX: 088-272796 EMAIL: sensihostel@gmail.com Rainforest Lodge & Backpackers Inn Ground & 1st Floor, Lot 48, Jalan Pantai, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah TEL: 088-258228 FAX: 088-253228 EMAIL: info@rainforestlodgekk.com Kinabalu Hostel Kompleks Sukan Likas, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah. TEL: 088-221567 FAX: 088-213953 EMAIL: kinabaluhostel@sabah.gov.my
KK:The Green Connection: Open 10-6pm every day. Last entry is 4:30 to make sure you have enough time to see everything. Feeding Show is at 11:30am and 4pm. Located at 2.5mile Jalan Tuaran, 10 minutes from KK in a taxi – RM15. Any green blue or purple bus from the Wawasan Plaza Terminal going to Tuaran, Mengatal, Innanam Telipok (get off at the stop after the Pagoda, Ask for Bukit Keramat) – RM1. Green/yellow/red city buses say sector 1 laluan 1
KK: the Lok Kawi Wildlife Park in Kota Kinabalu For birdwatchers, the Kota Kinabalu Wetland Center, located just a mile away from the city center, has recorded sightings of more than 80 species of birds. Diving — Only 15 minutes away from the city via speedboat, the Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park is composed of five small islands and undamaged coral reefs and is popular among tourists and locals alike for snorkeling, diving and relaxation. Lying in shallow waters with gentle currents, the reefs are ideal for novice divers, and the rare marine creatures that inhabit them will interest even the most experienced divers and underwater photographers. The Mari-Mari Cultural Village features the traditional homes of the Sabahan ethnic communities: Bajau, Lundayeh, Murut, Rungus and Dusun. The ingenious and unique architecture of the houses and ritualistic ceremonies that are regularly performed by the villagers let visitors get acquainted with the rich culture of ancient Borneo. Travelers can also witness tribesmen demonstrating the art of blowpipe-making, fire-starting using bamboo, and tattoo-making, as well as learn about the mystical symbolisms attached to them. Seafood — First-time travellers must try the lat zi hai (crab in hot and spicy sauce), butter prawns, kam heong la la (stir-fried fragrant clams) and sayur manis or fern cooked with belacan (prawn paste) at Kampung Nelayan Floating Seafood Restaurant, located 10 minutes away from the city center. Diners at Kampung Nelayan can also enjoy nightly cultural performances.
KK: Signal Hill is the highest point in the city. The best place for a good view of Kota Kinabalu. Just a couple of minutes drive from Padang Merdeka will bring you to the airy deck where you can get amazing views that extend to the outlying islands of the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park and further. It is off the normal bus route. Taxi fare to the Signal Hill Observatory Platform is RM10-RM15. It is Open Daily from 8.00am till 12.00 Midnight. Admission is free.
Flying Via MAS WINGS, get yourselves to the airport (Terminal 1) for Kota Kinabalu to Kudat flights every Monday and Thursday, departing 2.00pm and arriving at 2.45pm. Kudat to Kota Kinabalu, departs at 5.15pm and arrives in KK at 5.55pm.The return flight cost per person will be RM 166 and RM 83 for one way. Call +60 88515224 or +60 515 226 or toll free 1300 88 300. Call before and we can arrange pick up at the airport! (RM 20 each way)
View Jungle Camp, Tampat Do Aman tampatdoaman@gmail.com
CATCH a shared taxi from Bandaran Berjaya Kota Kinabalu, RM 30, asking them to take you to Tampat Do Aman, Tiga Papan, Kudat, directly or go to Kudat town telephoning on the way or when you have arrived so that you can arrange for us to pick you up and bring you straight to the TDA area that you wish to visit. (RM 20 each way)
Kudat Field Office, No 541 Lot 2 Taman Pakka Choon, Jalan Tamanggong Kerantud POB 389, Kudat Tel. +6088612339
Kevin Chen 0149520692 Hotel Kinabalu (Kudat) No 1243, JIn. Melor, Lot No 182, Blok C, Pekan Tamborungus, Kudat, Sabah TEL: 088-612022 FAX: 088-615388
Marudu Inn Lot 61, JIn Tanduk, Pekan Goshen, Kota Marudu, Sabah TEL: 088-661200 FAX: 088-661167
HOTEL KINABALU Peti Surat No. 82 89057 KUDAT SABAH Tel : 088-613888 Fax : 088-615388 Bil. Rooms : 18 Rooms Rate : RM42- RM77
HOTEL SOUTHERN Peti Surat No. 59 89057 KUDAT SABAH Tel : 088-613133 Fax : – Bil.Rooms : 10 Rooms Rate : RM45 – RM60
HOTEL SUNRISE Pekan Lama Kudat Peti Surat No. 253 89058 KUDAT SABAH Tel : 088 – 611517 Rooms : 17 Rooms Rate : RM20- RM48
HOTEL DREAM GARDEN Peti Surat No. 222 89058 KUDAT SABAH Tel : 088-622633 Fax : 088-612496 Rate : RM48 – RM130
HOTEL GREENLAND Peti Surat No. 253 89058 KUDAT SABAH Tel : 088-613211 Fax : 088-611854 Bil. Rooms : 16 Rooms Rate : RM35 – RM154
HOTEL GRACE GARDEN Peti Surat No. 222 89058 KUDAT SABAH Tel : 088-612496 Fax : 088-612496 Bil. Rooms : 13 Rooms Rate : RM48 – RM96
HOTEL UPPER DECK Jalan Lintas Peti Surat No. 448 89058 KUDAT SABAH Tel : 088-622272, 622282 Fax : 088-622300 Rooms : 28 Rooms Rate : RM80 – RM160
HOTEL RIA Jalan Marudu, Ground Floor, Lot No.3, Peti Surat No. 82, 89057 KUDAT SABAH Tel : 088-622226, 622794, 622218, Fax : 623226 24 Rooms Rate : RM88 – RM266
3) Bavanggazo, a traditional longhouse for tourist: Situated in a valley about 41 kilometres south of Kudat town
The Maranjak Longhouse Homestay is located near Tinangol, not very far from the main road leading to Kudat
4) Sunjamal Resort, a uniquely designed, small retreat run by a Swiss lady that will appeal to the most discerning traveler.
About 45 kilometers before Kudat you come to one of the first tourism attractions developed in the area: Kg Gombizau, the ‘Honey Village’. Kg Gombizau is a ‘one village, one trade’ example, and most of its inhabitants are rearing honey bees. You can drive up to the village, where you have to pay a small entrance fee to go and see how the honey is collected. It is a good idea to buy some local honey here, which has many benefits for your health. A bit further north from Kg Gombizau is Kg Sumangkap, another ‘one village one trade’ example, and an extraordinary one: Kg Sumangkap is the gong-village of Sabah. A visit to the village will show you how gongs are made, and the locals will be happy to tell you more about the importance of this instrument, so typical throughout Borneo.
The next stop-over is just after Kg Sumangkap: Kg Bavanggazo. The Rungus traditionally live in longhouses of a uniquely practical architecture. There are over 200 longhouses on the Kudat Peninsula, but you hardly will see them as they tend to be a bit off the beaten track. Not many are built in an entirely traditional style any more with bamboo flooring and palm thatch. The longhouse of Bavanggazo was built as an example of the traditional style, and it is open to tourists with comfortable and quiet, traditional rooms to stay overnight. If you want to experience the Rungus life style the Bavanggazo longhouse provides you with a safe and clean alternative to roughing it out in a ‘real’ Rungus village where dogs and pigs roam under the houses and kids jump up and down the longhouse gallery, making sleep sometimes rather difficult. The hosts of Bavanggazo are as friendly as Sabah people can be, and will go out of their way to prepare you some local specialties for dinner, and later don traditional outfits to entertain you with their age old dances and gong music. Don’t worry of making a fool out of yourself when you are asked to take part in the dances – this just belongs to the traditions, and it would not be polite to refuse!
HOW TO GET TO KUDAT AND KOTA BELUD
Mini-buses for Kota Belud leave from the bus station in front of Centrepoint Complex, in Kota Kinabalu, throughout the day; the fare is RM10. Air-conditioned buses for Kudat and Kota Marudu, leaving from near the Padang at 7.30 am, 6.30 am, 12 noon and 1 pm, can be taken as far as Kota Belud (RM10), or on as far as Kudat for the same fare. In Kudat, buses for Kota Kinabalu leave from next to the Telekoms office, opposite the clothing market near Hotel Sunrise. It is possible to share a long-distance taxi (RM 25 per person) or to charter it for RM100, between Kota Kinabalu and Kudat; long-distance taxis leave from near KK Padang. Car hire companies offer self-drive sedans or 4-wheel drive vehicles for journeys to Kudat; sedans cost around RM1S0 per day, while a 4-wheel drive costs from RM250-300.
Most Vibrant Market The tamu or Sunday market of Kota Belud has been famous ever since it first began. Originally known as the Tamu Darat (Land Market), it was held on neutral ground where the indigenous Dusun could meet the Bajau, Irranun and Obian Muslims, as well as Chinese traders, to barter or purchase goods. Today, vendors come from all over the West Coast and even die Interior to take part in the tamu, which offers an unrivalled opportunity for discovering some of Sabah’s many different ethnic groups, as well as exploring an astonishing variety of produce. Everything from herbal medicine to mountain-grown vegetables, wild orchids to chilli-laced dried fish, luscious tropical fruit to edible seaweed is on sale. Medicine men hawk their wares; Irranun women enjoy an impromptu concert as they await buyers for their musical instruments; Rungus down from their longhouse preside over handmade brooms and woven baskets while Bajau women turn out a constant stream of deep-fried cakes. All the color and variety of the regular tamu comes to a grand climax with the annual Tamu Besar, with cultural displays, dances, handicrafts and, of course, the famous Bajau horsemen.